Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps in Rome

Our holiday to Rome was absolutely fantastic. We explored many of the city's famous landmarks, including the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Roman Forum, Trevi Fountain and the incredible museums at the Vatican. Each of these places was breathtaking and left us in awe of Rome's rich history and beauty. But what made our trip even more special were the smaller, less-heard-of attractions that we discovered along the way. Among them was the Museo Nazionale Romano, Palazzo Altemps, a hidden gem that felt like a peaceful escape from the bustling tourist spots. 

The Palazzo Altemps Museum is located in the heart of Rome, near Piazza Navona. We were heading from Piazza Navona to Castel Sant'Angelo and stumbled upon this museum on the way. It’s easy to reach by public transport or on foot if you’re exploring the city center. The closest metro station is Barberini (Line A) and from there, you can take a short bus ride or walk to the museum. Several bus lines, including 70, 81 and 87, stop nearby. If you prefer walking, it’s a pleasant stroll from other famous landmarks like the Pantheon or Campo de' Fiori.

The Palazzo Altemps became part of the Museo Nazionale Romano in 1997. The building itself has a long history, originally constructed in the 15th century and later owned by the Altemps family in the 16th century. It was used to house their impressive collection of ancient sculptures. Over the centuries, the palace changed hands and served various purposes before becoming a museum. Today, it showcases stunning classical art and offers a glimpse into the rich history of Rome’s aristocratic families and their love for ancient art.

The courtyard has three floors, with arches on the northern side showing four Roman statues from the Altemps collection. On the eastern side, there is a beautiful fountain and a nymphaeum. A special canopy now covers the courtyard, inspired by how it was once covered during parties in the 18th century. The canopy protects the statues and walls from rain, reflects light at night, and even reminds visitors of the Colosseum's famous sail used to shield spectators.

The Altemps Collection

The Altemps Collection, which originally included more than 100 works of art, today consists of only 16 pieces which are currently displayed in the palazzo. Most others were sold and are now museums around the world. In the courtyard, you can see 4 major sculptures from this collection - a young Hercules, an athlete at rest, a maenad and a Demeter, all Roman-era copies of the Greek originals.

The rooms on the first floor still have many of their original fresco decorations, which were beautiful to see. In the Room of Painted Perspectives, the walls show 16th-century style art, including fake windows, landscapes, hunting scenes and ruins. The designs are framed by painted columns and tapestries, making it feel like stepping back in time.

On the ground floor is another room which has the Ludovisi Ares statue, is decorated with frescos from the late 1400s and a painted sideboard. All the other nearby rooms showcase stunning 16th-century ‘grotesque’ designs, leading to a frescoed loggia. 

This loggia (porch) feels like a secret garden, with art inspired by ancient discoveries and geographical explorations. It’s truly a unique experience.

The Boncompagni Ludovisi Collection

The Boncompagni Ludovisi Collection includes pieces like the Statue of Ares, Statue of Orestes and Electra, Statue of Pan and Daphnis, Statue of Athena with snake, Statue of crouching Aphrodite with dolphin and more.

The Statue of crouching Aphrodite with dolphin (pictured below) is a Roman copy of a bronze original made by the sculptor Doidalsas and shows the naked goddess crouching while Eros stands behind her, holding a cloth to dry her. Her pose and the way she covers her chest with her arm remind us of the ancient ritual of bathing. 

The Statue of Pan and Daphnis (pictured below) shows the goat-legged god Pan teaching a beautiful young boy to play the panpipes.

Aphrodite Cnidia (pictured below - right), Roman Imperial copy of the 4th century BCE Greek statue.

There are many other interesting pieces at the museum like the Medusa Ludovisi (Sleeping Fury), Statue of Apollo with lyre, Statue of Dionysus with Panther and Satyr, Statue of Isis, The Suicide of the Gaul and many more. Depending on your interest in sculptures/art, you can easily spend a leisurely couple of hours at this museum.

The Church of San Aniceto was built in the 1600s by Giovanni Angelo Altemps, the nephew of Cardinal Marco Sittico. It was dedicated to Saint Aniceto, one of the early popes. The church was made to hold the saint’s remains, which were the first in Rome’s history to be kept privately.

Other collections at the museum include the Mattei Collection, the Gorga Collection, the Egyptian Collection and some pieces from the from the Albani del Drago Collection and the Pallavicini-Rospigliosi Collection.

The Altemps Museum surprised us with its charm and elegance. It is housed in a beautiful Renaissance palace and the collection of art and sculptures inside was fascinating.

We loved wandering through the quiet galleries, admiring the paintings and ancient artifacts without the usual crowds. It felt like we had the space to truly appreciate everything at our own relaxed pace. While the big landmarks of Rome were unforgettable, it was visiting places like the Palazzo Altemps Museum that made our trip feel unique.

You can purchase entry tickets just to the Palazzo Altemps or buy a combo ticket which also gives you entry to the other sister museums (Terme di Diocleziano and Palazzo Massimo). If you are visiting on the first Sunday of the month, then you get free admission to all the 3 museums. The Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30am to 7pm, with the last admission at 6pm.